Twenty years on.
Shallot-skin color, the vines hail from en Gémaux and he’s a box of heirloom tomatoes warmed inside the car. Small berries with crunch, more semi-solid than juice, aligned to a smoky shiitake meatiness. The finish is long, mineral-articulate and silvery-bright. ’96 is still a year defined by the turbulence, done in by acidity and structure; but this is one grand cru to answer the call, “find the gentle side of me”. Now – 2020+.