Twenty years on.

Carmine color, the vines hail from en Gémaux and its box of heirloom tomatoes warmed inside the car.  Small berries with crunch, more semi-solid than juice, aligned to a smoky shiitake meatiness.  The finish is long, mineral-articulate and silvery-bright.  ’96 is still a year defined by the turbulence, done in by acidity and structure; but this is one grand cru to answer the call, “find the gentle side of me”.  Now – 2020+.