Grape Expectations, Emeryville CA.
Fifteen years on.
Emerald patina and ’02 opens with minerality stacked upon itself, as though it had been pound together, carbonized. Saffron, peaches and steel and the salty-sweet finish is like steeping flint and tonka bean in a lobster stock. Still so much torque you’ll swear Vincent runs these wines through a centrifuge before bottling. Now – 2020.