Philipponnat, Brut ‘Clos de Goisses’ Mareuil-sur-Aÿ 1999

Imported by Wine Cellars LTD., Briarcliff Manor NY.

65% PN, 35% Chardonnay from a steep, walled south-facing vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ.  30% matured in oak cask.  Disgorged: March 2007.  Dosage: 4.8 g/l.

Green gold.  Evinces a very pure, tart choke cherry aspect while retaining sweeter suggestions of blueberry compote with liqueur-like intensity.  Tree sap, cake batter, purple iris and the fat of the clean lees in a peacock’s tail of inferences.  Massively concentrated with the tension and torque of a great Chevalier Montrachet.  The finish is indomitable.  Will still improve.  Now – 2030+.

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