Labet, Chardonnay Côtes du Jura ‘Les Varrons’ 2010

Charles Neal Selections, Richmond CA.

From a sirloin parcel on a slope with a top altitude of 280 meters, exposed toward the east.  65-year-old vines from sélections massales (vines existing on the property rather than more modern clones). Complex soil combines Benthonien and Bajocien limestone, with 30 to 80 cm of yellow and ocre-colored clay, striped with eolien sediment.

Gold.  An ujjayi breath of smoke and earth.  There’s a complex midpalate here, intertwining tertiary character with a bright bend of exotic apple fruit giving structure and harmony to the wine.  The finish is savory and salty and dry.  Now – 2022+.

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