Terry Theise and Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY.

75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay from grand cru vineyards in Ambonnay. No malolactic fermentation.

Fifteen years on.

Yellow-gold. Barley and cherry tomato and the noble suggestion of black truffle. The palate gives a suave delivery of gras richness and the chew of skin and the piquancy of pit offers stimulating counterpoint. Ambonnay’s terroir imprint is sustained by illusive nuances of chalk, smoke and salt. Now.