Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco NY.

100% Chardonnay from sirloin parcels in Bourron du Levant, one planted in the thirties, the other in the fifties, facing east. Raised in wood, a mix of used foudre and barrique. Dosage: 2 g/l.

Fifteen years on.

Yellow-gold. Lush and dense without a trace of fat. At this dosage the chalk texture is emphasized and then the dashi broth and langoustine come on from behind. Driftwood and gushing yellow peach, burnished and crusty and caramelized with the bite of chervil and fennel seed. Now.