Moulin Touchais, Coteaux du Layon 1985

Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco NY.

Thirty five years on.

Gold. Quince jelly, sweat and a gelee of smoky botrytis. Not massively sweet, just lavish and extravagantly caramelized. There’s an attractive savory undertow, gives it subtext and counterpoint. The finish shows fleur de sel and an alkaline wet stoniness. Now.

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