Franck Bonville, Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru ‘Cuvée Les Belles Voyes’ Oger (2002)

Premier Wine Company, Richmond CA. 

100% Chardonnay from just under 2 h/a of estate vines, a sirloin parcel in Oger. Oldest vines planted in 1938. Raised entirely in old oak cask. Aged five years on the lees. Dosage: 2.5 g/l.

From jeroboam.

Yellow-gold. The bouquet is leesy and ornamented and offers a multitude of prompts. The palate links closely to the nose and has the texture of whole milk. Its packing has a bundt-cake middle outlined in chalk with a stylish stream of juice of stayman apples sautéed in cinammon and butter, poached pear, toasted hazelnut, rice pudding, incense, and clove. It lengthens with a sure hand and the terroir has the final word, omnipresent and tactile in its impression of Oger’s minerality, like it was shot from a hydrant. Now – 2030+.

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