Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Grandes Ruchottes 1er Cru 2000

Boston Wine Company, Somerville MA.

From magnum.

Yellow-gold.  An ocean zephyr of a nose, pungent, racy and profound: a pure core of green fruit, opal basil, tidal pool essences.  Dry and lacy, with a verdurous depth on the palate, the texture more silken than velvet: a silvery steel formed of essential peach, citrus and wood sorrel.

A precision so intensely crystalline it shattered both our glasses.  Generally, our take on ’00 white burgundy is good not great: they lack a superior grip and minerality found in the best years.  Not this Maltroye; this Ruchottes had us singing Zip-A-Dee-Doo-Dah, all day and into the night.

A very fine Grands Ruchottes and a reminder that this climat belong up there with Les Caillerets as some of the best ground in the commune.  Far and away the best showing of this wine in this format (and the last time we opened one of these was Christmas ’11 and that was its worst performance: not poxed but advanced qualities of honey, nuts and bruised fruit).  One more reminder that there are no great wines, only great bottles.  Now – 2018.

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