Grand Cru Imports, Souderton PA.
Twenty years on.
Ruby. Firm and confident and cool as slate. A structured, concentrated wine of black currant and its leaf yet the whole thing is still somehow crepuscular and irreducible, as if physiological ripeness was achieved in solitude and shade. My sense with ’98 is it will be angular and mysterious until it is finally ready, and then it will be beneficent and dramatic in its savory way. Now – 2030+.