Bollinger, Brut ‘La Grande Année’ Aÿ 2008

71% PN, 29% CH from estate fruit across eighteen crus (84% grand cru, 16% premier cru). 100% barrel fermentation in used barrique. Kept nine years on the lees. Disgorged November 2018. Dosage: 8 g/l.

Yellow-gold. At once intensely fragrant, as though it wishes to convince you of something. It has a mega-polished armoire outer air. Really glorious fruit, mirabelle and pristine Normandy cider-like pear fruit and the texture is almost custardy. Pistachio extract, almond frangipane, and the fat of the clean lees. The subtexts here are both savory and saline. Predictably for its vintage it is most definitive through its exit, with more nuances than one can find mineral descriptors for. A wine that works on all fronts – depth, persistence, length, intricacy. Now – 2035+.

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