Fifteen years on.

Yellow-green. The bouquet gives the sense of an important wine of richness and authority. Intense and palpably high-extract. It opens with layered aromas of muskmelon, peach kernel, clear honey, resin, spice, a touch of botrytis. The palate offers both power and intrigue, opens up to grapefruit pith and lemony freshness and that gives it greater youth. Saline and flinty minerality on the long finish. This still has cards to play, has a smooth outer and a robust inner. Now – 2035+.

Per Patrick, the clusters here are always very tiny in this steep, windswept sector, the leaves often yellowing from stress, in contrast with Bougros from up on the plateau.