Straw yellow color. Once past the spontaneously fermentative overtones this is quite resonant and glyceric: orchard and citrus fruit, apple blossom, wintergreen, crushed slate.  Undulating intimations of smoke, lees, herb and fructose-rich fruit: honey-tinged yellow peach, persian melon, asian pear. Ravishing texture for Kabinett.  Long, sweetly saline finish.  Distinctive: this is at once lavish and polished.  Now – 2020+.