Refulgent ruby.  Carnal, varnished nose with an organic streak: lavish and layered red fruit, peony, morel, star anise, Vosne-Romanee earth and stone.  A goût de terroir with presence.  Creamy, well-refined coffee and spice essences: top-drawer oak here.  On the palate, this is ravishing yet precise and mineral expressive, the texture of fine suede: loganberry rôti, groseille, morello cherry.  High-toned but no undue ’96 acidity; this is vibrant and detailed.  Long, articulated finish.  Perhaps not the poise or sheer brillance of his uncle Henri Jayer but this has generosity and finesse.  A seductive ’96 grand cru that is showing quite well today.  Now – 2025+.