Refulgent ruby. Carnal, varnished nose with an organic streak: lavish and layered red fruit, peony, morel, star anise, Vosne-Romanee earth and stone. A goût de terroir with presence. Creamy, well-refined coffee and spice essences: top-drawer oak here. On the palate, this is ravishing yet precise and mineral expressive, the texture of fine suede: loganberry rôti, groseille, morello cherry. High-toned but no undue ’96 acidity; this is vibrant and detailed. Long, articulated finish. Perhaps not the poise or sheer brillance of his uncle Henri Jayer but this has generosity and finesse. A seductive ’96 grand cru that is showing quite well today. Now – 2025+.