Fifteen years on tasting.

Well-colored ruby.  A bit hidden at first.  Reductive toast and density lift cleanly to reveal a wine with textured fabric and crystalline-focused fruit.  Gets redder and more intricate in the glass; cherry stone to pomegranate to rosehips.  Slender, silvery minerality at the end.  All Volnay lift and buoyancy; a delightful Clos des Chênes.  Like most of the ’99s it still holds the ace in trade: this will be even better at age twenty.  Now – 2025.