Fifteen years on tasting.
Well-colored ruby. A bit hidden at first. Reductive toast and density lift cleanly to reveal a wine with textured fabric and crystalline-focused fruit. Gets redder and more intricate in the glass; cherry stone to pomegranate to rosehips. Slender, silvery minerality at the end. All Volnay lift and buoyancy; a delightful Clos des Chênes. Like most of the ’99s it still holds the ace in trade: this will be even better at age twenty. Now – 2025.