Twenty-five years on tasting.
Not surprisingly, significant bottle variation at this stage: some of these are too soft (tendre). Second bottle is a heart on fire, sensual and fondued: caramelized quetsch and groseille, orange-peel, perigord, pan-drippings. Tender and sweet with just enough intensity and backbone to follow-through. The finish is meticulous, a chiseled detail of Prémeaux limestone and oolite. Evocative Pruliers but time to drink up, before the mist turns to vapor.