100% Chardonnay: 70% grand cru (Cramant, Chouilly) and 30% premier cru (Oiry).  Dosage: 4 g/l.  2006 base vintage.  Current release.

Yellow-gold.  Antiquey with a tilt towards baroque, evoking images of a snow-covered mansard roof, adorned by puff pastry, tonka bean, toasted lees, honeyed lemon.  The finish is meticulous chalk, dry and mineralic.  Generosity allied to steely regard; characterful stuff, this Ruelle-Pertois.  Now – 2018.