Fullish straw.  A fragrant, lifted nose: floral orchard and citrus fruit, peony, cinnamon, sweet-salt. Vivi, crystalline palate: pêche-de-vigne, candied yam, apple dew and persimmon, all dusted in baking spice.  Concentrated, bordering on thick: like demi-glacé.  Fullish and expressive but not as delineated as we would have hoped: some of that is Rheingau (where precision is seemingly sacrificed at the altar for mass) and some of that is the vintage.  A bit acid-shy: again, the vintage speaks.  Some stoniness and minerality.  Twenty year Spätlese for sure.  Just maybe not our first choice in Kiedricher Gräfenberg Spätlese from Weil.  So very good rather than fine.  Now – 2025.