Resplendent cherry red color, faded rim.  Old-school baroque with a gilded oak sheen: toothsome black and red fruit, chinese black tea, oolitic stone, wet farmyard straw.  Pungent, dense, carnal, earthy.  A starchiness bordering on amylic: forest black raspberry, amarelle cherry, groseille.  Prominent, glutenous tannins.  Miso-brine and limestone finish.  Robust, thundering ’90.  Will last for ages.  Now – 2020.