Amber color. Intoxicating, marvelously suggestive nose: saffron, rhododendron honey, white mocha, singed toffee, roasted hazelnut. Intimations still of PJ’s lily white florality. Copper rich palate, a creamy fondue of toasted wheat grain, honeyed orchard fruit and malt. Very pure; this is sweet without being sweet. Refined bead, still with plenty of game. Porcelain, china doll mousse. Markedly long for PJ Fleur, queen of the welterweights. Lacy lattice of citric acidity and silex structure give this profound animation and clarity: these should keep gracefully still (and much longer than the ’82).